Michelin starred dining doesn’t always have to cost a small fortune. Well, that is, not in Hungary anyway.
One of the few establishments in the country’s capital to receive the accolade, Borkonyha is also possibly the most laid-back of them all. Fine dining is all too often seen to be white tablecloths, polished silverware and stuffy waiters, but Borkonyha is different. Simple hard wooden tables with dark finishings in metal, marble and glass decorate the space – not overly vast, but extremely light from the large windows that look out over the centre of this historic city.
We ate at lunch (midweek) and the place is still nearly full. Borkonyha is famed for its wines, and this is evident in the rows upon rows that line its walls. Home grown Hungarian varieties sit alongside more well-known types, completely earning their place. We opt for the local plonk, and it’s well worth it. Never too heavy, yet entirely complimentary to the meal. Game and offal are the dishes of choice (not unusual for the location) and my duck breast is cooked to perfection – never more than medium-well. Liver is never my favourite (nor will it ever be) yet even I can appreciate the care that’s been put into producing the other dish on the table. A few too many glasses of the easy-to-drink red later and we’re onto a gorgeously enticing chocolate dessert. Presentation is impeccable, and the lavishly rich taste matches the expectation.
A three course meal with wine and a Michelin star to boot for around £30 each? Budapest, we will be visiting again.
Sas u. 3