Industry Standard, Berlin

The walk up from Kreuzberg to find Industry Standard was definitely enough to work up an appetite. After a long stroll up Urbanstraße and then along (the slightly unnerving) Sonnenalle, I begin to wonder where on earth this in new restaurant might be. I’m told Neukölln is the up-and-coming part of town – “Like Shoreditch, before it became ‘Shoreditch’.” I see the point, yet remain optimistic whilst simultaneously checking for the nearest Uber (note, there aren’t many in Berlin). Then suddenly, in and amongst the Turkish kebab shops, springs up our destination nestled away behind a dark wooden facade, and rather easily missable to the untrained eye.

Industry Standard is small, buzzy and exactly how I imagined it. Neatly placed high tables sit in the foyer next to a wooden bar that backs straight onto the surprisingly large open kitchen. It’s tight, but the whole place reeks of vibrancy – just what you’d hope for in one of the hottest new openings in town. With no room at the bar, we’re luckily taken straight to our table in the compact restaurant. Space in Berlin is usually easy to come by, but Londoners missing their city will feel right at home in these cosy surroundings. 

The waiting staff are all super helpful and guide us through the eclectic menu with expert knowledge, including the drinks menu, where we opt for a bottle of their finest (cider). The food menu reads like nothing you’d ever dream of. From bloodcake to goats yogurt, ox tongue to bone marrow, it’s a challenging, intriguing and downright daring list of culinary delights. We don’t know where to start!

Food is served tapas style and we order conservatively at first – we’re glad we did. The portions are actually on the larger side, and around 6 or 7 dishes suffice for the four of us. The dishes are served fresh and arrive throughout the meal. 

Kohlrabi and hazelnut accompany the tangy goats yogurt in an interestingly refreshing dish, whilst the beetroot and kale that come with the deliciously stodgy bloodcake are a fantastic addition. Classic beef tartar is given a whole new texture with crispy potatoes and pork neck served medium rare is tender and ideally paired with the walnut and chicory side. Rich bone marrow is made into a delicacy when brought out with snails as a topping, making for one of the riskiest combinations in the meal. It pays off. 

For a menu that initially looked like it may cost a bit of fortune, we very extremely impressed (and quite frankly shocked) when it turned to be €40 a head, proving that innovative menus in brand new restaurants needn’t always rinse your wallet. 

I think the clue’s in the name, Berlin. The standard’s well and truly been set for the restaurant industry to follow suit.

Sonnenallee 83,

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